Skillet Chicken Thighs with White Wine–Butter Sauce

preheat the oven to 450 degrees F.

Pat the chicken dry with paper towels. Sprinkle them on both sides with 1 1/2 teaspoons each salt and pepper.

Heat a large oven-proof skillet (preferably cast iron) over medium-high heat. Add the chicken thighs to the skillet skin-side down and cook, moving them around once or twice to ensure even browning, until the skin is very golden brown, 11 to 12 minutes.

Turn off the heat. Grasp a wad of paper towels with tongs and mop up excess fat in the bottom of the skillet—this will prevent the grease from spattering all over your oven; carefully discard the paper towel. Repeat several times until there’s only a thin film of oil over the bottom of the skillet.

Transfer the skillet to the oven and roast until the chicken is almost cooked through, 6 to 8 minutes. Flip the thighs so they are skin side up, then continue roasting until no longer pink near the bone, another 6 minutes. Remove the skillet from the oven and transfer the chicken thighs to a plate, skin side up. Wipe out the skillet and set aside.

Meanwhile, start your sauce. Combine the vinegar, wine, shallots, lemon juice and bay leaves in a heavy 2-quart saucepan. Simmer over medium heat until the mixture is reduced to a wet paste, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the cream and continue to simmer until the mixture is reduced to about 2 tablespoons.

Reduce the heat to low and remove the bay leaves. Add a few chunks of the butter and whisk constantly until melted, then add a few more chunks and whisk again until melted. Continue adding and whisking the butter, which should melt into a creamy emulsion, until all the butter is incorporated, about 4 minutes. Do not let the sauce go over 130 degrees F or it will separate. If the sauce starts to break, remove from the heat, add 2 ice cubes and whisk until it cools down and comes back together.

Season the sauce with 1/2 teaspoon salt and a pinch of pepper. Transfer it to the cast iron skillet, nestle the chicken on top and sprinkle the whole dish with chives. Serve immediately.